OK I've read Trisha Fisk's instructions, but still not sure I want to attempt this. On the other hand, my new sheep pen is only half finished without the gate! Gate is wooden, 2m long, with normal hinge straps.
So, anyone want to offer advice or alternatively tell me to wait for an expert?
Hanging a gate that already has the hinges welded in place is extremely difficult ....
Work out if you ever want to easily remove this gate. If yes,work out how high off the ground that you want the bottom gudgeon, and put it in. Put the bottom strap into the bottom gudgeon. Lift the gate up until it is near the post. Put the Top gudgeon into the hinge strap and work out the correct place to drill. Drill the hole, put in the gudgeon and hang the gate.
If not, put the gudgeon in place above the strap facing down and work out where to drill the hole for the gudgeon ABOVE the strap. Drill the hole, put in gudgeon facing DOWN. Take off the top hinge strap. Hang the gate onto the bottom gudgeon, put the hinge strap onto the top gudgeon then fiddle around with the gate to get the bolts back. Before the bolts go back is the time to adgust the gudgeons to get the gate to hang where you want it.
You can buy Gudgeon Guides that are brilliant. They are dummy gudgeons that you chain in place and are hollow. You can test swing the gate adjusting as required then simply drill a hole through the dummy gudgeon and insert your gudgeons. Result is a perfectly swung gate every time. Worth thier wieght in gold
HD, there and many different methods depending on what fencer you ask. This is the way i use, its not the fastest way, and takes a bit more f'ing around, but is generally easier and reasonably accurate for a beginner.
Use some blocks of wood on the ground to get your gate sitting exactly where you want it to be when it is shut. Have a friend around to help hold it, manouvere it around, swear at, etc.
Once you have the gate sitting exactly where you want it, hold the gudeon in the top bracket (hole) and mark on the post with a pencil where your hole needs to be drilled. Then take the gate away completly and drill the hole. Make sure you are using a gudeon which goes right through the post, and has a nut which screws onto the other end.
Then hang the gate on that top gudeon. Use your friend to hold the end of the gate off the ground and chock it up with blocks again, and using a spirit level make sure it is level vertically, and raised slightly (about 20mm) and the end of the gate, because it will drop so you want to accomodate for that.
When it is sitting right, put the gudgeon on the bottom bracket and once again pencil where the hole needs to go. This can be a short gudgeon...
Once again remove the gate, drill your hole, insert your gudgeon, and use your bored, tired, but trusty friend to help you hang the gate If it needs adjustment use the nuts on the top gudgeon to adjust as needed.
Its reasonably simple once your there in the paddock so give it a go. Worst case scenerio is you have have to take it out and try again...
This is sounding like a major production! Of the required tools, I currently have the pencil LOL.
Common sense says wait for the fencer, or the BIL, or a kind neighbour, but where's the fun in that LOL? I have the gate, one short and one long gudgeon, and a day off work....
Well the ground rises and falls so that may not be such a bad thing LOL, but yes I get the point. And after doing the posts and rails with a bottle of water to get things level(ish) I had pretty much decided a spirit level might be a useful acquisition anyway.
quote:Originally posted by Isla
The Staff does magic things with a spirit level, so the gudgeons are exactly in line with each other vertically. If you don't do that, the gate will rise or fall as it swings.
For your high powered electric drill you need 2 bits/drills. The long one to go all the way through the post has to be the same diameter as the gudgeon. If the bit is too big then the gudgeon and the gate will flop around too much. If it is too small then the gudgeon won't go through the hole. If it is the correct size the gudgeon will need to be screwed through, so that it is a firm fit.
With the bottom bit, this must be a bit smaller than the gudgeon diameter so that it is a tight screw. To screw in this gudgeon I use a ring spanner that is slightly larger than the upright bit of the gudgeon. Put the spanner ring over the upright bit of the gudgeon and do a 1/2 turn, then swing the spanner round to do another half turn, etc ....
I will have to give my other half a 'test' on this to see if he hung our gate properly last week.
Ahh yes, my high powered electric drill LOL...
Oddly I was wondering about drill bits late last night. Thanks for posting. So any future adjustments are made using the nuts to move the long gudgeon through the post while the short one remains fixed?
Hi HD, I use a variation on FM's technique.
Firstly I make sure that I am using gudgeons of the same make so the offset from the bottom of the hinge portion to the centre of the thread is the same. I then figure out where I want the gate to sit and mark the bottom of the hinge location. I then measure down the amount of the offset mentioned above (from the lip where the strap hinge sits to the centre) and mark that. Then I measure from that mark down the distance from the bottom of the top hinge to the bottom of the bottom hinge and mark. Use a spirit level to line up from the top point and mark again on the bottom line. These then are the centres at which to drill your holes.
If you want the gate to open flat against a fence or rails, set the gudgeons at 45 degrees to the opening and the fence you want to open to when viewed from above.
I also strongly suggest using the through post gudgeon on the top and there are ones with a securing bolt hole to prevent lift off if you are running cattle. The screw in ones can pull out at the top after a few years with the weight of the gate. The bottom ones tend to have pressure trying to push them in so are less stressed and the shorter screw in type are fine. Also if you set it up so there is some thread left on the gate side, the upper gudgeon can be screwed in tighter to lift the end later if the gate sags.
If you are using gudgeons of different makes and offsets then it just involves more measuring and a greater chance of something going slightly amiss!
hd, yes if you made the through-gudgeon hole slightly oversized. If you had to screw the gudgeon through the post, then to move the through-gudgeon you will need to remove the gate, screw the through-gudgeon then re-hang the gate.
Progress so far:
Rain last night
Gate on back of ute this morning
Ute down track to pen
Gate off ute, propped in opening, all looks OK
Ute back up track
Hilldweller useless ute-less, and therefore also powerdrill-less and spirit level-less
Fortunately it's good drying weather so should be able to retrieve ute tomorrow if not later today. KNEW it was a stupid decision